Restaurant Assessment: An Establishment for a Purpose – Brunch at Lindey’s

Restaurant Assessment: An Establishment for a Purpose – Brunch at Lindey’s

Lindey’s German Village has an extended and storied historical past within the Columbus eating scene. Positioned in German Village behind exquisitely formidable carved doorways, it’s a native establishment that first made its debut in 1981. In years prior, it was The Palmer Home, and earlier than that, it had a life as a grocery after which a saloon. There’s quite a lot of historical past within the constructing first constructed in 1884. 

After the 1981 opening, Lindey’s continued to make historical past because it earned a standing as a perennial high tenner within the eating scene. Run by the Doody Household, it’s the progenitor of subsequent well-liked tasks corresponding to Bravo, Brio and Piada. And whereas the branching institutions may mirror altering eating tendencies, Lindey’s itself continues to evolve in a extra basic vein. There are updates, however Lindey’s refined, clean vibe thrives on, powered by conventional type and heat waitstaff who by no means miss a beat. 

And whereas Lindey’s is on the flowery facet, it’s not so fancy that you simply’ll really feel self-conscious. Actually, there’s no motive to take heed to the self in any method right here; there are too many different issues to soak up. The enterprise has all the time been often called a spot the place the highly effective hang around. And though no specific power-players have been noticed throughout a current go to…we have been not likely certain what power-players appear like within the first place. 

So let’s have a look at the meals as a substitute, notably brunch. The menu mixes it up with a mix of breakfast objects in addition to menu fixtures from the later-day choice. By way of these menu fixtures then, it is going to be a horrible factor for those who skip out on the soup. Extra immediately, in a world of inconsiderate soups primarily based in cast-offs and canned concoctions, Lindey’s takes soup significantly. And we’re within the coronary heart of soup season proper now. 

So begin with the French Onion Soup. Beneath a picturesque melted lid of gruyere and provolone lies silky caramelized onions steeping with bread within the soup’s savory goodness. A small ($7) is sensible as a starter, however a big ($10) delivers extra happiness. 

Restaurant Assessment: An Establishment for a Purpose – Brunch at Lindey’s
French Onion Soup

Get the Lobster Bisque (small is $7) as properly. Sure, extra soup. On the very least, get a buddy to get the bisque and share. Topped with sherry chantilly cream, beneath its deep orange floor lies the promised baubles of candy and tender lobster. The soup base itself boasts an extremely luxe, creamy texture. Selecting between soups at Lindey’s is the worst dilemma ever.  

Lobster Bisque
Lobster Bisque

For brunch, it in all probability makes good sense to maneuver past the soup scene and rating some brunchie objects. Beignets ($10) match the invoice right here. They arrive fryer-fresh, a vital characteristic, and topped with powered sugar. A companion raspberry sauce can costume them up, however there’s one thing to be stated in regards to the bready tenderness of a heat beignet in its pure state. 

Beignets
Beignets

The Eggs Benedict ($15) showcases the kitchen’s method with poached eggs – with yolks absolutely encased in exquisitely tender egg white domes. The eggs perch atop dewy shaved applewood ham and springy halves of english muffins with a wealthy hollandaise. On the facet is contemporary fruit combine that gives a likable companion to the primary occasion. 

Eggs Benedict
Eggs Benedict

Served below a halo of tortilla crispies, Huevos Rancheros ($17) provide a festive presentation. Whereas its sunny-side-up eggs is likely to be the theoretical centerpiece of the dish, they’ve received competitors from a mixture of pickled greens, black beans, pork stomach, and a ultimate sprinkling of queso fresco. 

Huevos Rancheros
Huevos Rancheros

From the bar, there’s a considerate choice of wine, beer and cocktails, together with some enjoyable takes on classics, corresponding to Ohio Sangria ($14), a mix of brandy and spiced pear, allspice and pinot noir. 

Ohio Sangria
Ohio Sangria

You’ll discover Brunch at Lindey’s on weekends from 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. at 169 E. Beck Avenue. Reservations beneficial, valet parking obtainable. 

For extra info, go to lindeys.com.

All pictures by Susan Publish